Starbucks vs. Ethiopia

By Stephan Faris, Fortune

February 26 2007: 5:56 AM EST

The country that gave the world the coffee bean and the company that invented the $4 latte are fighting over a trademark, says Fortune's Stephan Faris.

一個(gè)是為世界生產(chǎn)咖啡豆的國(guó)家，一個(gè)是發(fā)明 4 美元一杯的拿鐵咖啡的公司，為爭(zhēng)奪一個(gè)商標(biāo)，雙方展開(kāi)激烈爭(zhēng)戰(zhàn)。

To produce a pound of organic sun-dried coffee, farmers in the southern Ethiopian village of Fero spread six pounds of ripe, red coffee cherries onto pallets near their fields. They sun the fruit for 15 days, stirring every few minutes to ensure uniform dryness, then shuck the shells.

埃塞俄比亞南部 Fero 村的咖啡農(nóng)需要把 6 磅成熟紅咖啡果粒放在田邊的草墊上曬干，才能生產(chǎn)出一磅天然干咖啡。他們把咖啡果粒攤在太陽(yáng)下曬 15 天，每隔幾分鐘就要翻動(dòng)一次，以保證干度均勻，然后再剝?nèi)ス麣ぁ?/p>

Last season, that pound of coffee fetched farmers an average price of $1.45. Figuring in the cost of generator fuel, bank interest, labor and transport across Ethiopia's dusty roads, it netted them less than $1. In the U.S., however, that same pound of coffee commands a much higher price: $26 for a bag of Starbucks' roasted Shirkina Sun-Dried Sidamo.

在上個(gè)季度，對(duì)于這樣一磅咖啡，咖啡農(nóng)平均只賣(mài)到 1.45 美元的價(jià)錢(qián)，再扣除電機(jī)燃料、銀行利息、勞務(wù)費(fèi)和埃塞俄比亞土路運(yùn)輸費(fèi)等各項(xiàng)成本，每磅咖啡中咖啡農(nóng)凈賺不到 1 美元。然而，在美國(guó)，同樣的一磅咖啡要價(jià)卻高得多: 一袋星巴克牌烘炒 Shirkina 曬干西達(dá)摩居然賣(mài)到 26 美元的高價(jià)。

The price differential, says Getachew Mengistie, head of Ethiopia's Intellectual Property Office, is evidence that his country has been unable to capitalize on what he calls its intellectual property. The Fero coffee is an extreme example, but it's not the only one. Ethiopia's specialty beans routinely retail abroad for three times the price of ordinary coffee.

埃塞俄比亞知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)署總長(zhǎng)格答喬•孟吉斯蒂（Getachew Mengistie）說(shuō)，這個(gè)差價(jià)證明他的國(guó)家未能很好地利用其所說(shuō)的知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)。Fero 咖啡就是一個(gè)極端的例子，但不是唯一的例子。埃塞俄比亞的土產(chǎn)咖啡豆通常照例銷(xiāo)往海外，售價(jià)是普通咖啡的三倍。

Getachew, who like most Ethiopians goes by his given name, argues that if the higher rates were simply the product of investments in roasting, packaging or marketing, distributors could do the same with any coffee. Since they don't, he says, some of the extra value must originate where the beans are grown. "There is clearly an intangible value in the specialty coffee of Ethiopia," he says. "But it's not being captured here."

就像絕大多數(shù)埃塞俄比亞人一樣，格答喬使用教名相稱(chēng)。他說(shuō)，假如價(jià)格上漲僅僅只是在咖啡烘炒、包裝或營(yíng)銷(xiāo)過(guò)程中投資的結(jié)果，那么，經(jīng)銷(xiāo)商用任何一種咖啡都應(yīng)能得到同樣的結(jié)果。他說(shuō)，既然經(jīng)銷(xiāo)商們做不到這一點(diǎn)，這就說(shuō)明有一部分超價(jià)值肯定來(lái)源于咖啡豆的產(chǎn)地。他說(shuō): “很顯然，在埃塞俄比亞的土產(chǎn)咖啡中有某種無(wú)形價(jià)值，但埃塞俄比亞卻沒(méi)有拿到這部分無(wú)形價(jià)值。”

That observation put the country that is the birthplace of the coffee bean on a collision course with the company that gave the world the $4 latte. The conflict began in March 2005, when Ethiopia filed with the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office to trademark the names of three coffee-producing regions: Yirgacheffe, Harrar and Sidamo, where Fero is located.

這種看法促使這個(gè)咖啡豆出產(chǎn)國(guó)踏上了同星巴克公司沖突的道路。后者是一家向世界推出 4 美元一杯的拿鐵咖啡的公司。這場(chǎng)沖突從 2005 年 3 月份開(kāi)始。當(dāng)時(shí)，埃塞俄比亞向美國(guó)專(zhuān)利與商標(biāo)署提出申請(qǐng)，要求用 3 個(gè)咖啡產(chǎn)地的名稱(chēng)作為商標(biāo): 這 3 個(gè)咖啡產(chǎn)地分別是耶加雪、哈拉爾和西達(dá)摩，F(xiàn)ero 村正位于西達(dá)摩境內(nèi)。

It was an attempt to use tools usually reserved for corporations in developed economies to wrest profit from their distributors. By seizing control of these brands, the Ethiopian government planned to force those who sell its coffee into licensing agreements, eventually obtaining a larger share of the sales.

這一行動(dòng)意在利用通常為發(fā)達(dá)國(guó)家的公司所保留的手段，從經(jīng)銷(xiāo)商手中爭(zhēng)奪一部分利潤(rùn)。埃塞俄比亞政府計(jì)劃通過(guò)獲得這些品牌的控制權(quán)，迫使銷(xiāo)售其咖啡的那些公司簽訂許可證協(xié)議，最終獲得更大部分的銷(xiāo)售額。

But in the case of Sidamo, Starbucks (Charts) had got there first, with an application the year before to trademark Shirkina Sun-Dried Sidamo. Until that application was resolved, Ethiopia's claim could not go forward. The country asked Starbucks to drop its claim but received no answer for more than a year, says Kassahun Ayele, Ethiopia's ambassador to the U.S. at the time: "They said, 'You have to talk to our lawyers.'"

但是，在西達(dá)摩這一事情上，星巴克首先占到了先機(jī)，在年前就已申請(qǐng)用“Shirkina 曬干西達(dá)摩”這個(gè)名稱(chēng)的注冊(cè)商標(biāo)。在這一申請(qǐng)最終得到裁定之前，埃塞俄比亞的要求不可能有任何進(jìn)展。該國(guó)要求星巴克放棄其注冊(cè)商標(biāo)的要求，但一年多來(lái)沒(méi)有得到任何答復(fù)。埃塞俄比亞當(dāng)年駐美國(guó)大使卡薩恩•艾萊（Kassahun Ayele）說(shuō): “他們說(shuō)，你必須去同我們的律師商談。”

The coffee company's objection was to Ethiopia's choice of intellectual-property protection. Trademarking is an unusual, though not unprecedented, choice for a geographic region. It gives the holder the exclusive right to use the name in branding, but it doesn't place any requirements on the product. Instead, Starbucks argues, Ethiopia would be better served by another form of protection, called geographic certification, used for such products as Idaho potatoes, Roquefort cheese and Florida oranges. It guarantees that the product comes from the stated region but allows others to use the name in their branding. Jamaican Blue Mountain and Kona coffees have geographic certifications. "I can't name one case where there are trademarks for coffee," says Dub Hay, senior vice president for coffee and global procurement at Starbucks.

這家咖啡公司拒絕的理由是，埃塞俄比亞不應(yīng)選擇知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)保護(hù)的這條途徑。給一個(gè)地理區(qū)域注冊(cè)商標(biāo)，雖說(shuō)并非沒(méi)有先例，但卻很不尋常。因?yàn)橛玫孛�注�?cè)商標(biāo)，使商標(biāo)擁有者在品牌建設(shè)中享有使用該名稱(chēng)的獨(dú)占權(quán)，但卻對(duì)相應(yīng)的產(chǎn)品沒(méi)有任何的要求。相反，星巴克辯稱(chēng)，埃塞俄比亞假如采用另一種保護(hù)形式，可能會(huì)得到更好的保護(hù)。這另一種保護(hù)形式叫做“地理證明”，已用于諸如愛(ài)達(dá)荷甜薯、洛克福羊乳干酪和佛羅里達(dá)橙桔此類(lèi)的產(chǎn)品。它保證產(chǎn)品來(lái)源于所述的地區(qū)，但同時(shí)也準(zhǔn)許其他人在其品牌中使用這個(gè)名稱(chēng)。牙買(mǎi)加的藍(lán)山和科納咖啡都有地理證明。星巴克公司咖啡和全球采購(gòu)高級(jí)副總裁達(dá)布•海（Dub Hay）說(shuō): “用地名作為咖啡商標(biāo)的例子，我連一個(gè)也找不到。”

Ethiopia doesn't deny that its choice is unorthodox, countering that its industry, in which 95 percent of the coffee is produced by two million subsistence-level farmers, is too unwieldy and impoverished to take on the administrative burden required to guarantee geographic origin. "If you set up certification, you have to bear the cost," says Ron Layton, head of Light Years IP, a nonprofit intellectual-property consultancy that has been advising Ethiopia.

埃塞俄比亞并不否認(rèn)自己的選擇不合常規(guī)。它反駁說(shuō)，在這個(gè)行業(yè)中，95% 的咖啡都是由 200 萬(wàn)咖啡農(nóng)生產(chǎn)的，這些咖啡農(nóng)徘徊在生存線(xiàn)邊緣，勞動(dòng)太繁重，生活太貧窮了，根本承擔(dān)不起保證地理來(lái)源所需要的管理負(fù)擔(dān)。光年知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)公司（Light Years IP）總裁羅恩•雷頓（Ron Layton）說(shuō): “如果你進(jìn)行了認(rèn)證，你就不得不承擔(dān)相應(yīng)的成本。”這是一家非營(yíng)利性的知識(shí)產(chǎn)權(quán)顧問(wèn)機(jī)構(gòu)，一直向埃塞俄比亞提供顧問(wèn)服務(wù)。

More to the point, certification wouldn't require distributors to seek permission to use the names in their branding. Starbucks, for instance, could still sell Shirkina Sun-Dried Sidamo, as long as its beans came from the region. "It doesn't give you that control over the market," says Getachew.

更一針見(jiàn)血的是，認(rèn)證并不能要求經(jīng)銷(xiāo)商要經(jīng)過(guò)許可才能在其品牌中使用這些名稱(chēng)。例如，只要其所采用的咖啡豆源于這個(gè)地區(qū)，星巴克仍然可能會(huì)銷(xiāo)售 Shirkina 曬干西達(dá)摩。格答喬說(shuō): “認(rèn)證，它并不能賦予你對(duì)市場(chǎng)的控制權(quán)。”

To blunt some of the opposition, Ethiopia has said it will not ask for royalties for its trademarked beans. The initial licensing requirements would be simply to label the beans prominently on the package and help in the promotion of Ethiopian coffee. "When demand for Ethiopian coffee grows, we will be able to ask for higher prices," says Getachew. Only if that strategy fails, he says, would other options, such as minimum prices, be pursued.

為了減少反對(duì)意見(jiàn)，埃塞俄比亞已經(jīng)聲明對(duì)其注冊(cè)商標(biāo)的咖啡豆不要求提成費(fèi)。初步的特許權(quán)規(guī)定只是在包裝上明顯地貼上咖啡豆的商標(biāo)，以有助于促銷(xiāo)埃塞俄比亞的咖啡。格答喬說(shuō): “這樣，當(dāng)埃塞俄比亞咖啡需求量增加時(shí)，我們就能索要高價(jià)。”他說(shuō)，只有當(dāng)這項(xiàng)戰(zhàn)略不能奏效時(shí)，才會(huì)采用其他途徑，如設(shè)定最低限價(jià)。

For Starbucks, the scenario is a potential public relations disaster, pitting the coffee company, which had record revenue of $7.8 billion last year, up 22 percent over 2005, against one of the world's poorest countries. The Seattle company has no shops in Ethiopia or indeed in sub-Saharan Africa, but Starbucks does source 2 percent of its beans from Ethiopia, accounting for 2 percent of the country's crop. It has also spent $2.4 million in investments and loans in Ethiopia since 2002. "We need these coffee farmers to be in business," says Hay.

對(duì)于星巴克來(lái)說(shuō)，這個(gè)情景無(wú)異于一場(chǎng)潛在的公關(guān)災(zāi)難，迫使它深陷同世界上最貧困國(guó)家一爭(zhēng)高下的泥淖。這家西雅圖公司去年?duì)I業(yè)收入突破歷史紀(jì)錄，達(dá)到 78 億美元，比 2005 年增加了 22%。它在埃塞俄比亞，甚至在整個(gè)非洲撒哈拉以南地區(qū)都沒(méi)有一家店鋪，但卻的確有 2% 的咖啡豆是從埃塞俄比亞采購(gòu)，占到該國(guó)總收成的 2%。自 2002 年以來(lái)，它已經(jīng)在埃塞俄比亞花費(fèi) 240 萬(wàn)美元進(jìn)行投資和貸款。海說(shuō): “我們需要這些咖啡農(nóng)繼續(xù)經(jīng)營(yíng)下去。”

Nobody is arguing that the farmers have it easy. In a UN ranking of human development, Ethiopia placed 170th out of 177 countries. A recent visit to Fero found most coffee farmers working without shoes. Their clothes were ripped. Most live in mud huts with thatched roofs and subsist on the fruits and vegetables they grow. "We are angry," says Teshome Debigo, a 28-year-old farmer. "But to whom can we cry?"

沒(méi)人會(huì)說(shuō)這些咖啡農(nóng)過(guò)得舒適安逸。根據(jù)聯(lián)合國(guó)一項(xiàng)人類(lèi)發(fā)展排序，在 177 國(guó)家中，埃塞俄比亞排在第 170 位。最近對(duì) Fero 村的一次考察發(fā)現(xiàn)，絕大多數(shù)咖啡農(nóng)干活時(shí)連鞋子都沒(méi)有，衣服破爛不堪。大多數(shù)人居住在茅草屋頂?shù)耐廖葜�，靠自種的水果、蔬菜勉強(qiáng)為生。28 歲的咖啡農(nóng)特紹姆•德比戈（Teshome Debigo）說(shuō): “我們非常氣憤，但我們能對(duì)誰(shuí)哭訴呢？”