Ordering the wine at a business function is not unimportant. Business people are judged by just about everything they do, and an ability to order wine crisply and well probably takes on far more significance than it should. When we first wrote about this issue in 2000, we quoted someone who still remembered a young associate, 20 years earlier, nervously looking over the wine list and finally telling the sommelier, 'I think we'll try the Lancers.' In fact, this situation is even more fraught than it was in 2000 because of the recession. Back then, the person forced to choose the wine could simply focus on a California cult Cabernet or some other fancy bottle and everybody would be happy. These days, the bottom line when it comes to wine really is the bottom line. Successful business people are supposed to be able to identify value - and the wine list is no exception. This is where the 'cheap' comes in.
And here's where 'cheat' comes in: More and more restaurants have their wine lists online. Find it and study it before you go. See what fits into your budget and look up the wines online. By the time you are handed the list, you'll be able to make a snap judgment that will make it appear you know what you're doing and are a quick decision-maker to boot. If the wine list is not online, drop by the restaurant in advance, look over the list and talk with the sommelier. It's a small investment in time that will pay big dividends.
Even if this isn't possible, at least spend a few minutes doing some Web browsing on the type of wine likely to be listed. Northern Italian restaurant? You probably will see a delightful, well-priced Barbera. Greek restaurant? At least you can remember that Assyrtiko is the famous white wine from Santorini. If this simply isn't possible, here are some tips:
1) Move fast. The longer you stare at the list, the more your associates will assume either that you know nothing about wine and you're lost or that you know a lot about wine and that the wine you order will be the greatest experience of their lives.
2) Skip anything that's familiar. No one is going to be impressed if you order Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay or Yellow Tail Shiraz and, in fact, they will be outraged at the restaurant's price. You will be punished for staying in your comfort zone. More broadly, for value, avoid the whole long lists of the most-familiar wines: American Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. A wine that is unfamiliar is more likely to impress your associates.
3) If the list is geographically broad, it will be hard to go wrong, for a white, with Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and, for a red, with Malbec from Argentina.
4) If there is a sommelier, don't be shy about using his or her help. Good business people know how to delegate, after all, and you are just showing that skill. But here's the key if you're really stuck: Once you decide how much you want to spend, choose an interesting, unusual wine around that price and then call over the sommelier and say, 'This looks interesting to me. Do you think this is a good idea or is there something else you'd suggest?' - but the whole time you are doing this, be pointing at the price, not the wine. Sommeliers are used to this. They understand.
On the other hand, maybe it's all simpler than that. We were discussing this with our old friend Mark Nadler, a Chicago-based management consultant to CEOs at Oliver Wyman Delta, and he said, 'Here's my advice: The worst thing you can do is try to fake it. There is no shame in acknowledging to the table, 'You know what? I enjoy wine, but I wouldn't begin to describe myself as an expert. So I'd like to turn this over to one of you who really knows what they're talking about.' Believe me, you can bet there will always be at least one person who can't wait to grab the wine list and show off. Let them do the honors, and you earn easy points for humility.'
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在商業(yè)場(chǎng)合上點(diǎn)酒的能力并非無(wú)關(guān)緊要。商務(wù)人士的一言一行都會(huì)被當(dāng)作判斷其能力高低的依據(jù),點(diǎn)酒是否干脆老練且讓人皆大歡喜,或許被賦予了遠(yuǎn)遠(yuǎn)超出其本身的意義。我們記得當(dāng)我們的文章在2000年首次涉及這個(gè)話題時(shí),我們引述了某個(gè)人講述的20年前的故事。他記得有位年輕的助理緊張地看著酒單,最后告訴侍酒師,“我想我們就嘗嘗Lancers吧”。事實(shí)上,由于目前經(jīng)濟(jì)的不景氣,這種事情的發(fā)生比2000年還要頻繁。在那個(gè)年代,被迫點(diǎn)酒者可以索性將重點(diǎn)放在加州California cult Cabernet酒或其它精美的酒上,而這樣做也會(huì)讓人皆大歡喜。如今,點(diǎn)酒的底線還真的是指價(jià)格的底線了。成功的商業(yè)人士都應(yīng)該是識(shí)貨的,在點(diǎn)酒上也不會(huì)例外。這就是我們所說(shuō)的“便宜”的意思。
現(xiàn)在我們說(shuō)說(shuō)“忽悠”是怎么回事:如今越來(lái)越多的餐館把其酒單放在網(wǎng)上。請(qǐng)你上網(wǎng)找到酒單并在赴宴前對(duì)它進(jìn)行一番推敲,看看有什么酒在你的預(yù)算之內(nèi),然后在網(wǎng)上了解一下這些酒。這樣,當(dāng)你拿到酒單時(shí)就可以迅速做出判斷,且這會(huì)讓你看起來(lái)像是很懂行而且是能迅速拿主意的人。如果網(wǎng)上找不到酒單,那就請(qǐng)事先到餐廳走一趟看下酒單并與調(diào)酒師聊聊。時(shí)間上的這點(diǎn)小投資會(huì)讓你有大回報(bào)的。
即使在上述條件不允許的情況下,你至少要在網(wǎng)上花上幾分鐘對(duì)可能出現(xiàn)在酒單上的葡萄酒做些調(diào)研。去北意大利風(fēng)味的餐廳嗎?那酒單上可能會(huì)出現(xiàn)令人愉悅且價(jià)格公道的Barbera酒。去希臘風(fēng)味餐廳?那你至少可以記住Assyrtiko是著名的產(chǎn)自圣托里尼島(Santorini)的白葡萄酒。如果所有這一切都不可能,那么下面還有一些建議給你:
1. 爽快地點(diǎn)酒。你越是對(duì)著酒單發(fā)呆,你的同伴們?cè)绞菚?huì)認(rèn)為你因?qū)埔桓[不通而一頭霧水,或是會(huì)認(rèn)為你是個(gè)葡萄酒行家因而你今天花如此大心思點(diǎn)的酒會(huì)令他們喝了終身難忘。
2. 跳過(guò)大家熟知的酒。如果你點(diǎn)了Kendall-Jackson Chardonnay或Yellow Tail Shiraz,沒(méi)有人會(huì)覺(jué)得你挺在行。而事實(shí)上,他們還會(huì)為這種酒在餐廳里賣(mài)到如此貴的價(jià)格感到憤怒。為了不出錯(cuò)而保守行事,你會(huì)受到懲罰的。也就是說(shuō),為了物有所值,你應(yīng)該避開(kāi)最為大眾熟知的那一長(zhǎng)串葡萄酒名字如American Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon和Chardonnay。點(diǎn)上一瓶無(wú)人知曉的葡萄酒,會(huì)更讓你的同伴們對(duì)你刮目相看。
3. 如果酒單上的酒五花八門(mén)產(chǎn)自世界各地,那出錯(cuò)的可能性就很小。如要點(diǎn)白葡萄酒,那就點(diǎn)產(chǎn)自新西蘭的Sauvignon Blanc;如要點(diǎn)紅葡萄酒,那就點(diǎn)產(chǎn)自阿根廷的Malbec。
4. 如果餐廳配有侍酒師,那就別羞于讓他或她幫你一把。優(yōu)秀的商業(yè)人士畢竟都懂得如何把任務(wù)委派給他人,現(xiàn)在就是展示你這種能力的時(shí)候了。但假如你真的陷入了困境,這里還有個(gè)殺手 :一旦有了預(yù)算,你就在預(yù)算內(nèi)挑一種有點(diǎn)意思的但不落俗套的酒,然后把侍酒師叫過(guò)來(lái)說(shuō):“這種酒看起來(lái)挺有意思的。你覺(jué)得這是個(gè)好的選擇還是你有什么別的建議?“ 。但整個(gè)過(guò)程中,你的手要指在價(jià)格上而不是在葡萄酒名字上。這種場(chǎng)合侍酒師們見(jiàn)得多了,他們會(huì)明白你的意思。
另外還有或許比上述都更簡(jiǎn)單的做法。當(dāng)我們和我們的老朋友馬克•納德勒(Mark Nadler)討論這事的時(shí)候,他是位于芝加哥的奧緯公司(Oliver Wyman Delta)的一位專門(mén)向首席執(zhí)行官們提供咨詢的顧問(wèn),他說(shuō),我的建議是:沒(méi)有比不懂裝懂更糟糕的了。對(duì)整桌人坦承自己是葡萄酒外行并非是羞恥之事。我會(huì)說(shuō),“盡管我喜歡喝酒,但我不會(huì)以專家自詡。因此,我想把點(diǎn)酒的任務(wù)交給一位真正懂酒的人。” 相信我,你可以打賭至少會(huì)有一個(gè)人急不可待地一把奪過(guò)酒單并開(kāi)始炫耀其酒經(jīng)。把此項(xiàng)榮耀讓給他們吧,而你又能輕松地在謙虛的美德上得分。